by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
The fun part of being an avid reader and book collector is handling and keeping up with a lot of books, some of which may be pretty valuable. We get a lot of questions about how to make a book last and maintain its value over the years, so we put together some book care tips to help you.
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
The fun part of being an avid reader and book collector is handling and keeping up with a lot of books, some of which may be pretty valuable. We get a lot of questions about how to make a book last and maintain its value over the years, so we put together some book care tips to help you.
You’ll probably never get rich buying selling collectible books, so just look for those of interest that are in the best condition, have the nicest binding and are the earliest edition you can find and afford. Keep in mind that the dust jacket of a collectible modern edition accounts for up to 80% of its value.
A book doesn't have to be a first edition to be collectible. Look for signed editions of authors' works; limited, numbered editions; finely bound or illustrated editions; original paperback editions; or books containing maps or diagrams. If you want to collect first editions, find out how different publishers identify them. They don't all print "First Edition" on the copyright page. Some use number series starting with "1" or letter series starting with "A," while others simply don't list any later printings. You also need to make sure the book isn't a reprint, a book club edition or a facsimile of the first edition.
Control the temperature and limit the humidity in the spaces where you keep your books. Protect dust jackets with Mylar protectors, and keep them out of direct sunlight so they won't fade. Shelve your books so that their spines don't bend or break and their covers don't get scuffed. And if you notice evidence of little critters around your books, take measures to eliminate them.
If you really want to identify a book as yours, you may use a nice bookplate. It will still devalue the book, but not quite as much.
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
Schools out! Unload all your used textbooks and classroom required reading at Half Price Books. We'll make you a competitive cash offer on everything you bring in to sell. Learn more about selling textbooks here.
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
If you'd like to collect first editions of your favorite books, there are a few basic steps that can help you build a nice collection.
Before you look up a book in a price guide or on the Internet, make sure it's not a book club edition. Here are some characteristics of many book club editions:
You'll also want to make sure the book isn't a reprint edition, which is a print edition of a bookpreviously published by another publisher. Reprint publishers include Grosset & Dunlap, Tower and A.L. Burt. The copyright page of reprints will usually list the original publisher and publication date. Some reprints in dust jackets are collectible, including Modern Library and Grosset & Dunlap's Hardy Boys, Nancy Drew, and Tarzan series.
If you think you may have a first edition, you must understand that publishers use different means of denoting their first editions. Look on the copyright page (the other side of the title page) for the following first edition indications:
There are many other ways to tell if you have a first edition. McBride's Pocket Guide to the Identification of First Editions is a nice, compact reference for various publishers' first edition styles.
If the book appears to be a first edition, distinguish between desirable and common first editions. Here are some basic guidelines:
If your book is a collectible first edition, determine its condition. All of these flaws may decrease the value of a book or keep it from being collectible:
To learn more about determining a book's condition, read our article on Book Grading Scales
Whether or not it's a first edition, if you have an old, interesting book whose value you're wondering about, check for special features that may make it collectible:
Is all this book talk a little much? The Buy Guy breaks down all the book terminology for you!
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
We all know a first edition by Hemingway is likely to be worth some money. Students know how expensive a current textbook can be. But what about a nondescript book called Security Analysis by Benjamin Graham, published in 1940? How can that be worth hundreds of dollars? Or Ricky Jay’s Cards as Weapons, from 1977?
In the old days, when an odd or very niche book would come in, we’d use our gut instinct to put a price on it, then put it on the shelf and hope the right person would come along seeking a book on, say, training and showing mules, or beating the stock market through astrology. More often than not, those books sat unbothered on the shelf.
Over the last two decades, the Internet has exposed a great mass of books to a great mass of people, causing the prices of most used books to drop, often precipitously. At the same time, though, it has caused a sharp increase in prices for a lot of extremely unusual books. There may be great demand for a John Grisham novel, but there are so many out there that the price is low. On the other hand, there may only be five people in the world looking for a book on Dental Gold Structures, but now they don’t have to be in your neighborhood to buy it from you
I thought it would be interesting to share a sample of titles that may not seem to be treasures, but that have sold for a lot of money, sometimes hundreds of dollars.
A lot of the craft books we get at Half Price Books look pretty mundane, pretty insubstantial. Most are indeed very affordable. But there are groups of crafters out there who are always looking for certain well-thought-of guides in the areas of knitting and crocheting, woodworking, and many other crafts.
For gamer hobbyists, Dungeons & Dragons and a lot of other role-playing material from the Seventies may be in demand. Early videogame players’ guides may be sought-after as well. Other unexpectedly coveted hobby books cover glassblowing, rocketry, trains (both model trains and the real ones), poker, and puppetry.
Some examples: Ashley Book of Knots, by Clifford Ashley Book of Spinning Wheels (1993), by Joan Whittaker Cummer Denim Design Lab (2005), by Brian Robbins Modular Crochet (1978), Judith Copeland Canes and Walking Sticks (1974), Kurt Stein Advanced Speaker Designs for the Hobbyist & Technician, Roy Alden Flexible Shaft Machine Jewelry Techniques (1983), Harold O'Connor Greenberg's Guide to Gilbert Erector Sets, 1933-62 (1998), Wm. Bean Marble's Knives and Axes (1978), Konrad F. Schreier, Jr. Rare and Unusual Fly Tying Materials, Vol. 2 (1997), Paul Schmookler
An early book by a popular author, sometimes written under a pseudonym and/or in a genre other than the one they’ve become known for, may be collectible.
Sherrilyn Kenyon, Nora Roberts and Brenda Jackson are among those who started that way, and their earlier works may have some value. Mystery author Janet Evanovich wrote romance under her own name and as Steffie Hall.
Well into the 1980s, popular horror writer Dean Koontz wrote romance, adult novels, thrillers and other fiction under a variety of pseudonyms, including Brian Coffey, K R Dwyer, Leigh Nichols, Owen West, Deanna Dwyer (!) and others. Many of these are hard to find and collectible, most often in paperback
Business and science books that are 40 years old or more can be surprisingly valuable. It may seem counterintuitive these would be of interest—and most aren’t. But some are considered classics in their narrow fields, and are still sought after, if only by a small number of readers. As far as science and technical books go, the higher the level and more specific the topic, the better.
A few examples: Beat the Market (1967), by Edward Thorp Margin of Safety: Risk-Averse Value Investing Strategies, Seth A Klarman Reality in Advertising (1961), Rosser Reeves Mathematical Theory of Evidence, Glenn Shafer Experimental Animation: Origins of a New Art (1976), ed. Russett, Starr Handbook of Electron Tube and Vacuum Techniques (1965), Fred Rosebury How to Build a Working Digital Computer (1968), Edward Alcosser Introduction to Structural Dynamics (1964), John Biggs
If a book’s topic is something you don’t see often, or it’s just plain weird, there’s a chance it’s something someone is dying to find. Here are a few examples of books that may have more value than you would expect.
Performing arts: Carnival Strippers, Susan Meiselas Social sciences: Seduction Of The Innocent, Fredric Wertham (comic books and society) Paranormal: The Catchers of Heaven: A Trilogy, Michael Wolf (about UFOs) Horse racing: Authentic Arabian Bloodstock (1990), Judith Forbis Martial arts: Dynamic Judo Throwing Techniques (1967), Kazuzo Kudo Coal (1978), Jason Grant Lifestyle: Fact and Fancy about Cigars and Tobacco (1967), Morton L. Annis (a 56-page booklet) Fishing: Rivers of Memory (1993), Harry Middleton Fortune telling: The Mystic Grimoire of Mighty Spells and Rituals, Frater Malak Music biography: Billion Dollar Baby, Bob Greene (a bio of Alice Cooper)
A lot of odd and niche books are not much more than that: they’re unusual and stay in their niche, unsought and unappreciated. But there are indeed quite a few books out there that you can’t judge by looking at their covers.
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
Making sure you have a true first edition isn't always as easy as it seems, but we're here to help. A book that says it’s a first edition isn’t always the first printing of the first edition, and the first printing is usually the one everyone wants. Read on to figure out whether your book is worth more than just the enjoyment of reading.
The edition of a book changes when its content changes or illustrations are added, or when a different publisher reprints it. Textbooks regularly go through several editions, but novels usually do not. However, the first edition of a novel may go through several printings. The collector of modern first editions is looking for first printings of a book’s first edition. The value of any later printings drops off tremendously (although rare first editions’ later printings may still have great value).
Even if it's a first printing, it may not be the first state (or first issue). Sometimes, a collectible book will have changes made after the first printing is issued (known as points ), including text changes or corrections, price changes on the dust jacket, or changes to the book’s design. The most collectible version is the first issue of a first printing of a first edition.
Sometimes, a limited edition (often numbered) is issued by the publisher. When this edition truly has some special feature—special illustrations, binding—it may have value as a collectible. When a limited edition is issued mainly because the author is so popular that there will be a large print run of the first edition, the value is often more dubious. The first edition that follows this type of limited edition is often called the first trade edition. Most books only have a first trade edition.
Book club editions are generally more cheaply made than publishers’ editions. Most book club editions, especially older ones, are smaller than publishers’ versions, and are easy to distinguish. More recent Book-of-the-Month Club editions are often about the same size as their publisher-edition counterparts. There are several signs to look for when determining whether or not a book is the book club edition:
None of these points is consistent, so you may need to use combinations of clues to be sure.
Some book clubs produce higher-end classics in literary bindings. These include
Some publishing houses specialize in reprints of other publishers’ originals. Although they’re rarely true first editions, some early ones have decorative dust jackets and are collectible. Most, however, aren’t of much value. Look for a statement on the book’s copyright page indicating that the book has been previously published.
Publishers who primarily issued reprints:
Modern Library is a reprint publisher whose editions many collect, especially earlier First Modern Library editions and those with decorative dust jackets.
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
Condition is key when it comes to determining a book's value. Whether you’re selling books or buying them, it’s important to be familiar with the book grading scale and condition definitions. Here’s a list to help you understand the major grading scale of hardback editions used by brick-and-mortar and online booksellers.
This is the top grading, reserved for unread books that are still in the same condition as when they were first printed.
A book in this condition may have been read, but looks new and has no defects thanks to the owner practicing good book care rules and guidelines.
Near Fine refers to books that are clean and have no defects, but may show slight wear at the edges or on the dust jacket. This comes from good handling, protection and storage of the book.
These books show minor signs of wear, and may have minor defects, all of which should be noted. A dust jacket in Very Good condition is almost a must for modern firsts, accounting for up to 80% of a book’s value. Books in this category can be more specifically classified as VG+ or VG-, depending on the number and extent of flaws. Such defects might include:
Your typical reading copy, complete, but with more obvious defects, including:
These books have suffered damage and are therefore not collectible. Problems may include:
This category represents books that aren't salable due to severe damage or missing parts
Modern firsts from the last twenty years should be VG+ or NF. These guidelines become more or less strict depending on the age and scarcity of the book. Books from the 19th century and earlier are allowed more foxing and other defects. In general, pricing lists in guides are for books in Fine condition, with a Fine dust jacket (F/F).
Read more about conditions of books, music and movies in our Condition Guide
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
For a while, a lot of people thought LPs were a thing of the past. At HPB, we may have had a little doubt, but we've always believed in records. Even at their lowest point, we kept space for them in our stores, because we always had customers who appreciated them.
LPs were introduced around 1948, and became the dominant recorded medium through the mid-Eighties. Then came the compact disc, and interest in the LP format waned. After that, digital music came along and threatened all hard-copy formats of music.
But now, the record is on the rise, even if its market share is still relatively small. Sales of new and used LPs—as well as turntables—are increasing by double digits every year as vinyl has become popular among both the young and old.
There is still a big market for the LP, both as a type of collectible and as a listening medium. Why the renewed interest in LPs? Well, in many ways it never really went away.
Of course, some types of records tend to be of more interest than others. Generally, the more pop the artists are, the easier their records are to find. But there is still greater demand than supply for some of the classic rock bands, especially from the Sixties, such as The Beatles, Led Zeppelin and Pink Floyd. There’s also a lot of demand for vinyl soul from the ‘70s, country & western from the ‘60s, punk, metal, classic blues and reggae. No matter the genre, middle-of-the-road artists tend not to garner much interest, but there are exceptions.
Keep in mind that an LP’s condition is very important. Bad pops and scratches can intrude on your listening experience, and a warped record isn’t even playable. But you can give the really cool and old ones some leeway, like Muddy Waters at Newport or The Freewheelin’ Bob Dylan. Sometimes it's worth it to own a classic piece of music history.
Learn more about condition of LPs in our Condition Guide
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
The fun part of being an avid reader and book collector is handling and keeping up with a lot of books, some of which may be pretty valuable. We get a lot of questions about how to make a book last and maintain its value over the years, so we put together some book care tips to help you.
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
The fun part of being an avid reader and book collector is handling and keeping up with a lot of books, some of which may be pretty valuable. We get a lot of questions about how to make a book last and maintain its value over the years, so we put together some book care tips to help you.
You’ll probably never get rich buying selling collectible books, so just look for those of interest that are in the best condition, have the nicest binding and are the earliest edition you can find and afford. Keep in mind that the dust jacket of a collectible modern edition accounts for up to 80% of its value.
A book doesn't have to be a first edition to be collectible. Look for signed editions of authors' works; limited, numbered editions; finely bound or illustrated editions; original paperback editions; or books containing maps or diagrams. If you want to collect first editions, find out how different publishers identify them. They don't all print "First Edition" on the copyright page. Some use number series starting with "1" or letter series starting with "A," while others simply don't list any later printings. You also need to make sure the book isn't a reprint, a book club edition or a facsimile of the first edition.
Control the temperature and limit the humidity in the spaces where you keep your books. Protect dust jackets with Mylar protectors, and keep them out of direct sunlight so they won't fade. Shelve your books so that their spines don't bend or break and their covers don't get scuffed. And if you notice evidence of little critters around your books, take measures to eliminate them.
If you really want to identify a book as yours, you may use a nice bookplate. It will still devalue the book, but not quite as much.
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
Schools out! Unload all your used textbooks and classroom required reading at Half Price Books. We'll make you a competitive cash offer on everything you bring in to sell. Learn more about selling textbooks here.
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
If you'd like to collect first editions of your favorite books, there are a few basic steps that can help you build a nice collection.
Before you look up a book in a price guide or on the Internet, make sure it's not a book club edition. Here are some characteristics of many book club editions:
You'll also want to make sure the book isn't a reprint edition, which is a print edition of a bookpreviously published by another publisher. Reprint publishers include Grosset & Dunlap, Tower and A.L. Burt. The copyright page of reprints will usually list the original publisher and publication date. Some reprints in dust jackets are collectible, including Modern Library and Grosset & Dunlap's Hardy Boys, Nancy Drew, and Tarzan series.
If you think you may have a first edition, you must understand that publishers use different means of denoting their first editions. Look on the copyright page (the other side of the title page) for the following first edition indications:
There are many other ways to tell if you have a first edition. McBride's Pocket Guide to the Identification of First Editions is a nice, compact reference for various publishers' first edition styles.
If the book appears to be a first edition, distinguish between desirable and common first editions. Here are some basic guidelines:
If your book is a collectible first edition, determine its condition. All of these flaws may decrease the value of a book or keep it from being collectible:
To learn more about determining a book's condition, read our article on Book Grading Scales
Whether or not it's a first edition, if you have an old, interesting book whose value you're wondering about, check for special features that may make it collectible:
Is all this book talk a little much? The Buy Guy breaks down all the book terminology for you!
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
We all know a first edition by Hemingway is likely to be worth some money. Students know how expensive a current textbook can be. But what about a nondescript book called Security Analysis by Benjamin Graham, published in 1940? How can that be worth hundreds of dollars? Or Ricky Jay’s Cards as Weapons, from 1977?
In the old days, when an odd or very niche book would come in, we’d use our gut instinct to put a price on it, then put it on the shelf and hope the right person would come along seeking a book on, say, training and showing mules, or beating the stock market through astrology. More often than not, those books sat unbothered on the shelf.
Over the last two decades, the Internet has exposed a great mass of books to a great mass of people, causing the prices of most used books to drop, often precipitously. At the same time, though, it has caused a sharp increase in prices for a lot of extremely unusual books. There may be great demand for a John Grisham novel, but there are so many out there that the price is low. On the other hand, there may only be five people in the world looking for a book on Dental Gold Structures, but now they don’t have to be in your neighborhood to buy it from you
I thought it would be interesting to share a sample of titles that may not seem to be treasures, but that have sold for a lot of money, sometimes hundreds of dollars.
A lot of the craft books we get at Half Price Books look pretty mundane, pretty insubstantial. Most are indeed very affordable. But there are groups of crafters out there who are always looking for certain well-thought-of guides in the areas of knitting and crocheting, woodworking, and many other crafts.
For gamer hobbyists, Dungeons & Dragons and a lot of other role-playing material from the Seventies may be in demand. Early videogame players’ guides may be sought-after as well. Other unexpectedly coveted hobby books cover glassblowing, rocketry, trains (both model trains and the real ones), poker, and puppetry.
Some examples: Ashley Book of Knots, by Clifford Ashley Book of Spinning Wheels (1993), by Joan Whittaker Cummer Denim Design Lab (2005), by Brian Robbins Modular Crochet (1978), Judith Copeland Canes and Walking Sticks (1974), Kurt Stein Advanced Speaker Designs for the Hobbyist & Technician, Roy Alden Flexible Shaft Machine Jewelry Techniques (1983), Harold O'Connor Greenberg's Guide to Gilbert Erector Sets, 1933-62 (1998), Wm. Bean Marble's Knives and Axes (1978), Konrad F. Schreier, Jr. Rare and Unusual Fly Tying Materials, Vol. 2 (1997), Paul Schmookler
An early book by a popular author, sometimes written under a pseudonym and/or in a genre other than the one they’ve become known for, may be collectible.
Sherrilyn Kenyon, Nora Roberts and Brenda Jackson are among those who started that way, and their earlier works may have some value. Mystery author Janet Evanovich wrote romance under her own name and as Steffie Hall.
Well into the 1980s, popular horror writer Dean Koontz wrote romance, adult novels, thrillers and other fiction under a variety of pseudonyms, including Brian Coffey, K R Dwyer, Leigh Nichols, Owen West, Deanna Dwyer (!) and others. Many of these are hard to find and collectible, most often in paperback
Business and science books that are 40 years old or more can be surprisingly valuable. It may seem counterintuitive these would be of interest—and most aren’t. But some are considered classics in their narrow fields, and are still sought after, if only by a small number of readers. As far as science and technical books go, the higher the level and more specific the topic, the better.
A few examples: Beat the Market (1967), by Edward Thorp Margin of Safety: Risk-Averse Value Investing Strategies, Seth A Klarman Reality in Advertising (1961), Rosser Reeves Mathematical Theory of Evidence, Glenn Shafer Experimental Animation: Origins of a New Art (1976), ed. Russett, Starr Handbook of Electron Tube and Vacuum Techniques (1965), Fred Rosebury How to Build a Working Digital Computer (1968), Edward Alcosser Introduction to Structural Dynamics (1964), John Biggs
If a book’s topic is something you don’t see often, or it’s just plain weird, there’s a chance it’s something someone is dying to find. Here are a few examples of books that may have more value than you would expect.
Performing arts: Carnival Strippers, Susan Meiselas Social sciences: Seduction Of The Innocent, Fredric Wertham (comic books and society) Paranormal: The Catchers of Heaven: A Trilogy, Michael Wolf (about UFOs) Horse racing: Authentic Arabian Bloodstock (1990), Judith Forbis Martial arts: Dynamic Judo Throwing Techniques (1967), Kazuzo Kudo Coal (1978), Jason Grant Lifestyle: Fact and Fancy about Cigars and Tobacco (1967), Morton L. Annis (a 56-page booklet) Fishing: Rivers of Memory (1993), Harry Middleton Fortune telling: The Mystic Grimoire of Mighty Spells and Rituals, Frater Malak Music biography: Billion Dollar Baby, Bob Greene (a bio of Alice Cooper)
A lot of odd and niche books are not much more than that: they’re unusual and stay in their niche, unsought and unappreciated. But there are indeed quite a few books out there that you can’t judge by looking at their covers.
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
Making sure you have a true first edition isn't always as easy as it seems, but we're here to help. A book that says it’s a first edition isn’t always the first printing of the first edition, and the first printing is usually the one everyone wants. Read on to figure out whether your book is worth more than just the enjoyment of reading.
The edition of a book changes when its content changes or illustrations are added, or when a different publisher reprints it. Textbooks regularly go through several editions, but novels usually do not. However, the first edition of a novel may go through several printings. The collector of modern first editions is looking for first printings of a book’s first edition. The value of any later printings drops off tremendously (although rare first editions’ later printings may still have great value).
Even if it's a first printing, it may not be the first state (or first issue). Sometimes, a collectible book will have changes made after the first printing is issued (known as points ), including text changes or corrections, price changes on the dust jacket, or changes to the book’s design. The most collectible version is the first issue of a first printing of a first edition.
Sometimes, a limited edition (often numbered) is issued by the publisher. When this edition truly has some special feature—special illustrations, binding—it may have value as a collectible. When a limited edition is issued mainly because the author is so popular that there will be a large print run of the first edition, the value is often more dubious. The first edition that follows this type of limited edition is often called the first trade edition. Most books only have a first trade edition.
Book club editions are generally more cheaply made than publishers’ editions. Most book club editions, especially older ones, are smaller than publishers’ versions, and are easy to distinguish. More recent Book-of-the-Month Club editions are often about the same size as their publisher-edition counterparts. There are several signs to look for when determining whether or not a book is the book club edition:
None of these points is consistent, so you may need to use combinations of clues to be sure.
Some book clubs produce higher-end classics in literary bindings. These include
Some publishing houses specialize in reprints of other publishers’ originals. Although they’re rarely true first editions, some early ones have decorative dust jackets and are collectible. Most, however, aren’t of much value. Look for a statement on the book’s copyright page indicating that the book has been previously published.
Publishers who primarily issued reprints:
Modern Library is a reprint publisher whose editions many collect, especially earlier First Modern Library editions and those with decorative dust jackets.
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
Condition is key when it comes to determining a book's value. Whether you’re selling books or buying them, it’s important to be familiar with the book grading scale and condition definitions. Here’s a list to help you understand the major grading scale of hardback editions used by brick-and-mortar and online booksellers.
This is the top grading, reserved for unread books that are still in the same condition as when they were first printed.
A book in this condition may have been read, but looks new and has no defects thanks to the owner practicing good book care rules and guidelines.
Near Fine refers to books that are clean and have no defects, but may show slight wear at the edges or on the dust jacket. This comes from good handling, protection and storage of the book.
These books show minor signs of wear, and may have minor defects, all of which should be noted. A dust jacket in Very Good condition is almost a must for modern firsts, accounting for up to 80% of a book’s value. Books in this category can be more specifically classified as VG+ or VG-, depending on the number and extent of flaws. Such defects might include:
Your typical reading copy, complete, but with more obvious defects, including:
These books have suffered damage and are therefore not collectible. Problems may include:
This category represents books that aren't salable due to severe damage or missing parts
Modern firsts from the last twenty years should be VG+ or NF. These guidelines become more or less strict depending on the age and scarcity of the book. Books from the 19th century and earlier are allowed more foxing and other defects. In general, pricing lists in guides are for books in Fine condition, with a Fine dust jacket (F/F).
Read more about conditions of books, music and movies in our Condition Guide
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
For a while, a lot of people thought LPs were a thing of the past. At HPB, we may have had a little doubt, but we've always believed in records. Even at their lowest point, we kept space for them in our stores, because we always had customers who appreciated them.
LPs were introduced around 1948, and became the dominant recorded medium through the mid-Eighties. Then came the compact disc, and interest in the LP format waned. After that, digital music came along and threatened all hard-copy formats of music.
But now, the record is on the rise, even if its market share is still relatively small. Sales of new and used LPs—as well as turntables—are increasing by double digits every year as vinyl has become popular among both the young and old.
There is still a big market for the LP, both as a type of collectible and as a listening medium. Why the renewed interest in LPs? Well, in many ways it never really went away.
Of course, some types of records tend to be of more interest than others. Generally, the more pop the artists are, the easier their records are to find. But there is still greater demand than supply for some of the classic rock bands, especially from the Sixties, such as The Beatles, Led Zeppelin and Pink Floyd. There’s also a lot of demand for vinyl soul from the ‘70s, country & western from the ‘60s, punk, metal, classic blues and reggae. No matter the genre, middle-of-the-road artists tend not to garner much interest, but there are exceptions.
Keep in mind that an LP’s condition is very important. Bad pops and scratches can intrude on your listening experience, and a warped record isn’t even playable. But you can give the really cool and old ones some leeway, like Muddy Waters at Newport or The Freewheelin’ Bob Dylan. Sometimes it's worth it to own a classic piece of music history.
Learn more about condition of LPs in our Condition Guide
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
The fun part of being an avid reader and book collector is handling and keeping up with a lot of books, some of which may be pretty valuable. We get a lot of questions about how to make a book last and maintain its value over the years, so we put together some book care tips to help you.
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
The fun part of being an avid reader and book collector is handling and keeping up with a lot of books, some of which may be pretty valuable. We get a lot of questions about how to make a book last and maintain its value over the years, so we put together some book care tips to help you.
You’ll probably never get rich buying selling collectible books, so just look for those of interest that are in the best condition, have the nicest binding and are the earliest edition you can find and afford. Keep in mind that the dust jacket of a collectible modern edition accounts for up to 80% of its value.
A book doesn't have to be a first edition to be collectible. Look for signed editions of authors' works; limited, numbered editions; finely bound or illustrated editions; original paperback editions; or books containing maps or diagrams. If you want to collect first editions, find out how different publishers identify them. They don't all print "First Edition" on the copyright page. Some use number series starting with "1" or letter series starting with "A," while others simply don't list any later printings. You also need to make sure the book isn't a reprint, a book club edition or a facsimile of the first edition.
Control the temperature and limit the humidity in the spaces where you keep your books. Protect dust jackets with Mylar protectors, and keep them out of direct sunlight so they won't fade. Shelve your books so that their spines don't bend or break and their covers don't get scuffed. And if you notice evidence of little critters around your books, take measures to eliminate them.
If you really want to identify a book as yours, you may use a nice bookplate. It will still devalue the book, but not quite as much.
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
Schools out! Unload all your used textbooks and classroom required reading at Half Price Books. We'll make you a competitive cash offer on everything you bring in to sell. Learn more about selling textbooks here.
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
If you'd like to collect first editions of your favorite books, there are a few basic steps that can help you build a nice collection.
Before you look up a book in a price guide or on the Internet, make sure it's not a book club edition. Here are some characteristics of many book club editions:
You'll also want to make sure the book isn't a reprint edition, which is a print edition of a bookpreviously published by another publisher. Reprint publishers include Grosset & Dunlap, Tower and A.L. Burt. The copyright page of reprints will usually list the original publisher and publication date. Some reprints in dust jackets are collectible, including Modern Library and Grosset & Dunlap's Hardy Boys, Nancy Drew, and Tarzan series.
If you think you may have a first edition, you must understand that publishers use different means of denoting their first editions. Look on the copyright page (the other side of the title page) for the following first edition indications:
There are many other ways to tell if you have a first edition. McBride's Pocket Guide to the Identification of First Editions is a nice, compact reference for various publishers' first edition styles.
If the book appears to be a first edition, distinguish between desirable and common first editions. Here are some basic guidelines:
If your book is a collectible first edition, determine its condition. All of these flaws may decrease the value of a book or keep it from being collectible:
To learn more about determining a book's condition, read our article on Book Grading Scales
Whether or not it's a first edition, if you have an old, interesting book whose value you're wondering about, check for special features that may make it collectible:
Is all this book talk a little much? The Buy Guy breaks down all the book terminology for you!
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
We all know a first edition by Hemingway is likely to be worth some money. Students know how expensive a current textbook can be. But what about a nondescript book called Security Analysis by Benjamin Graham, published in 1940? How can that be worth hundreds of dollars? Or Ricky Jay’s Cards as Weapons, from 1977?
In the old days, when an odd or very niche book would come in, we’d use our gut instinct to put a price on it, then put it on the shelf and hope the right person would come along seeking a book on, say, training and showing mules, or beating the stock market through astrology. More often than not, those books sat unbothered on the shelf.
Over the last two decades, the Internet has exposed a great mass of books to a great mass of people, causing the prices of most used books to drop, often precipitously. At the same time, though, it has caused a sharp increase in prices for a lot of extremely unusual books. There may be great demand for a John Grisham novel, but there are so many out there that the price is low. On the other hand, there may only be five people in the world looking for a book on Dental Gold Structures, but now they don’t have to be in your neighborhood to buy it from you
I thought it would be interesting to share a sample of titles that may not seem to be treasures, but that have sold for a lot of money, sometimes hundreds of dollars.
A lot of the craft books we get at Half Price Books look pretty mundane, pretty insubstantial. Most are indeed very affordable. But there are groups of crafters out there who are always looking for certain well-thought-of guides in the areas of knitting and crocheting, woodworking, and many other crafts.
For gamer hobbyists, Dungeons & Dragons and a lot of other role-playing material from the Seventies may be in demand. Early videogame players’ guides may be sought-after as well. Other unexpectedly coveted hobby books cover glassblowing, rocketry, trains (both model trains and the real ones), poker, and puppetry.
Some examples: Ashley Book of Knots, by Clifford Ashley Book of Spinning Wheels (1993), by Joan Whittaker Cummer Denim Design Lab (2005), by Brian Robbins Modular Crochet (1978), Judith Copeland Canes and Walking Sticks (1974), Kurt Stein Advanced Speaker Designs for the Hobbyist & Technician, Roy Alden Flexible Shaft Machine Jewelry Techniques (1983), Harold O'Connor Greenberg's Guide to Gilbert Erector Sets, 1933-62 (1998), Wm. Bean Marble's Knives and Axes (1978), Konrad F. Schreier, Jr. Rare and Unusual Fly Tying Materials, Vol. 2 (1997), Paul Schmookler
An early book by a popular author, sometimes written under a pseudonym and/or in a genre other than the one they’ve become known for, may be collectible.
Sherrilyn Kenyon, Nora Roberts and Brenda Jackson are among those who started that way, and their earlier works may have some value. Mystery author Janet Evanovich wrote romance under her own name and as Steffie Hall.
Well into the 1980s, popular horror writer Dean Koontz wrote romance, adult novels, thrillers and other fiction under a variety of pseudonyms, including Brian Coffey, K R Dwyer, Leigh Nichols, Owen West, Deanna Dwyer (!) and others. Many of these are hard to find and collectible, most often in paperback
Business and science books that are 40 years old or more can be surprisingly valuable. It may seem counterintuitive these would be of interest—and most aren’t. But some are considered classics in their narrow fields, and are still sought after, if only by a small number of readers. As far as science and technical books go, the higher the level and more specific the topic, the better.
A few examples: Beat the Market (1967), by Edward Thorp Margin of Safety: Risk-Averse Value Investing Strategies, Seth A Klarman Reality in Advertising (1961), Rosser Reeves Mathematical Theory of Evidence, Glenn Shafer Experimental Animation: Origins of a New Art (1976), ed. Russett, Starr Handbook of Electron Tube and Vacuum Techniques (1965), Fred Rosebury How to Build a Working Digital Computer (1968), Edward Alcosser Introduction to Structural Dynamics (1964), John Biggs
If a book’s topic is something you don’t see often, or it’s just plain weird, there’s a chance it’s something someone is dying to find. Here are a few examples of books that may have more value than you would expect.
Performing arts: Carnival Strippers, Susan Meiselas Social sciences: Seduction Of The Innocent, Fredric Wertham (comic books and society) Paranormal: The Catchers of Heaven: A Trilogy, Michael Wolf (about UFOs) Horse racing: Authentic Arabian Bloodstock (1990), Judith Forbis Martial arts: Dynamic Judo Throwing Techniques (1967), Kazuzo Kudo Coal (1978), Jason Grant Lifestyle: Fact and Fancy about Cigars and Tobacco (1967), Morton L. Annis (a 56-page booklet) Fishing: Rivers of Memory (1993), Harry Middleton Fortune telling: The Mystic Grimoire of Mighty Spells and Rituals, Frater Malak Music biography: Billion Dollar Baby, Bob Greene (a bio of Alice Cooper)
A lot of odd and niche books are not much more than that: they’re unusual and stay in their niche, unsought and unappreciated. But there are indeed quite a few books out there that you can’t judge by looking at their covers.
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
Making sure you have a true first edition isn't always as easy as it seems, but we're here to help. A book that says it’s a first edition isn’t always the first printing of the first edition, and the first printing is usually the one everyone wants. Read on to figure out whether your book is worth more than just the enjoyment of reading.
The edition of a book changes when its content changes or illustrations are added, or when a different publisher reprints it. Textbooks regularly go through several editions, but novels usually do not. However, the first edition of a novel may go through several printings. The collector of modern first editions is looking for first printings of a book’s first edition. The value of any later printings drops off tremendously (although rare first editions’ later printings may still have great value).
Even if it's a first printing, it may not be the first state (or first issue). Sometimes, a collectible book will have changes made after the first printing is issued (known as points ), including text changes or corrections, price changes on the dust jacket, or changes to the book’s design. The most collectible version is the first issue of a first printing of a first edition.
Sometimes, a limited edition (often numbered) is issued by the publisher. When this edition truly has some special feature—special illustrations, binding—it may have value as a collectible. When a limited edition is issued mainly because the author is so popular that there will be a large print run of the first edition, the value is often more dubious. The first edition that follows this type of limited edition is often called the first trade edition. Most books only have a first trade edition.
Book club editions are generally more cheaply made than publishers’ editions. Most book club editions, especially older ones, are smaller than publishers’ versions, and are easy to distinguish. More recent Book-of-the-Month Club editions are often about the same size as their publisher-edition counterparts. There are several signs to look for when determining whether or not a book is the book club edition:
None of these points is consistent, so you may need to use combinations of clues to be sure.
Some book clubs produce higher-end classics in literary bindings. These include
Some publishing houses specialize in reprints of other publishers’ originals. Although they’re rarely true first editions, some early ones have decorative dust jackets and are collectible. Most, however, aren’t of much value. Look for a statement on the book’s copyright page indicating that the book has been previously published.
Publishers who primarily issued reprints:
Modern Library is a reprint publisher whose editions many collect, especially earlier First Modern Library editions and those with decorative dust jackets.
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
Condition is key when it comes to determining a book's value. Whether you’re selling books or buying them, it’s important to be familiar with the book grading scale and condition definitions. Here’s a list to help you understand the major grading scale of hardback editions used by brick-and-mortar and online booksellers.
This is the top grading, reserved for unread books that are still in the same condition as when they were first printed.
A book in this condition may have been read, but looks new and has no defects thanks to the owner practicing good book care rules and guidelines.
Near Fine refers to books that are clean and have no defects, but may show slight wear at the edges or on the dust jacket. This comes from good handling, protection and storage of the book.
These books show minor signs of wear, and may have minor defects, all of which should be noted. A dust jacket in Very Good condition is almost a must for modern firsts, accounting for up to 80% of a book’s value. Books in this category can be more specifically classified as VG+ or VG-, depending on the number and extent of flaws. Such defects might include:
Your typical reading copy, complete, but with more obvious defects, including:
These books have suffered damage and are therefore not collectible. Problems may include:
This category represents books that aren't salable due to severe damage or missing parts
Modern firsts from the last twenty years should be VG+ or NF. These guidelines become more or less strict depending on the age and scarcity of the book. Books from the 19th century and earlier are allowed more foxing and other defects. In general, pricing lists in guides are for books in Fine condition, with a Fine dust jacket (F/F).
Read more about conditions of books, music and movies in our Condition Guide
by Steve Leach, the HPB Buy Guy
For a while, a lot of people thought LPs were a thing of the past. At HPB, we may have had a little doubt, but we've always believed in records. Even at their lowest point, we kept space for them in our stores, because we always had customers who appreciated them.
LPs were introduced around 1948, and became the dominant recorded medium through the mid-Eighties. Then came the compact disc, and interest in the LP format waned. After that, digital music came along and threatened all hard-copy formats of music.
But now, the record is on the rise, even if its market share is still relatively small. Sales of new and used LPs—as well as turntables—are increasing by double digits every year as vinyl has become popular among both the young and old.
There is still a big market for the LP, both as a type of collectible and as a listening medium. Why the renewed interest in LPs? Well, in many ways it never really went away.
Of course, some types of records tend to be of more interest than others. Generally, the more pop the artists are, the easier their records are to find. But there is still greater demand than supply for some of the classic rock bands, especially from the Sixties, such as The Beatles, Led Zeppelin and Pink Floyd. There’s also a lot of demand for vinyl soul from the ‘70s, country & western from the ‘60s, punk, metal, classic blues and reggae. No matter the genre, middle-of-the-road artists tend not to garner much interest, but there are exceptions.
Keep in mind that an LP’s condition is very important. Bad pops and scratches can intrude on your listening experience, and a warped record isn’t even playable. But you can give the really cool and old ones some leeway, like Muddy Waters at Newport or The Freewheelin’ Bob Dylan. Sometimes it's worth it to own a classic piece of music history.
Learn more about condition of LPs in our Condition Guide
By Steve Leach, HPB Buy Guy
You’re browsing at a library sale. You’ve wanted to read a little Agatha Christie and you spot a hardback copy of Death on the Nile. You realize you may have found a treasure when you open it up and see Ms. Christie has signed the book! Or has she? Well, it’s certainly worth a buck, signed or not. And it may be worth a bunch of bucks.
Or let's say you're a big Kurt Vonnegut fan, and you have all of his books. But you see a signed copy of Breakfast of Champions being offered by an online dealer. It’s going to cost you more than you’ve ever paid for a book, but it’s worth it to get a book Vonnegut actually signed. Or did he? How can you be sure this dealer knows the signature is authentic?
You may have come across signed books and wondered whether the signatures are real. How can you be sure? Well, it’s not easy. Each Half Price Books location has well-trained buyers, and while they can’t all be autograph experts, they do diligent research. Honest sellers, like Half Price Books, offer refunds to purchasers who question the authenticity of a signature they’ve bought.
When our buyers encounter signed merchandise, particularly when the authentic signature is valuable, the buying situation may be more perilous and subject to costly error than any other. For example, a customer recently came to one of our stores with an old paperback copy of Brave New World. Value no more than $3. But there on the title page was the handwritten name: “Aldous Huxley.” Buyers did online research and talked to the customer about the book. In the end, it came down to making a decision between putting a value of three bucks on the item or more than $1,000. Quite a difference!
Here are some guidelines, along a continuum of safest bet to iffiest, that our buyers follow when buying signed merchandise. Hopefully, they can help you feel a bit more confident about buying a signed book.
When you buy sought-after signed items, sometimes you're taking a chance. But it’s a worthwhile hobby because it’s so thrilling to have something one of your literary heroes held and signed. Just be careful!